Fabric holding device for automatic contoured sewing



March 23, 1965 BONO 3,174,447

FABRIC HOLDING DEVICE FOR AUTOMATIC CONTOURED SEWING Filed Sept. 5, 1963 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 ATTORNEYS March 23, 1965 L. BONO 3,174,447

FABRIC HOLDING DEVICE FOR AUTOMATIC CONTOURED SEWING Filed Sept. 5, 1965 5 Shets-Sheet 2 INVENIOR Lulm BoN BY rWMQV ATTORNEY 5 March 23, 1965 L. BONO 3,174,447

FABRIC HOLDING DEVICE FOR AUTOMATIC CONTOURED SEWING Filed Sept. 5, 1963 s Sheets-Sheet :s

INVENTOR LUIGI Bouo ATTORNEK United States Patent Gfifice 3,l74 ,i4 7 Patented Mar. 23,. 1965 3,174,447 FABRIC HOLDING DEVICE FOR AUTOMATE CONTOURED SEWHNG Luigi Bone, Pavia, Italy, assignor to Necchi Societa per Azioni, Pavia, ltaly Filed Sept. 5, 1963, Ser. No. 306,865 Claims'priority, application Italy, Sept. 5, E62, 17,514/62 7 Claims. (Cl. 1l22) This invention relates in general to new and useful improvements in equipment for sewing machines, and more particularly relates to a novel device for the stretching in acorrect position pieces of fabric that are to be sewn by a sewing machine through the automatic execution f seams according to patterns designed beforehand. This invention finds a particular, but not exclusive, application in the stretching to a correct position the pieces of fabric that are to be sewn for making shirt collars.

customarily shirt collars are formed from three pieces of fabric that are stretched in a fabric holding frame in well defined positions and in such a manner as not to permit any slipping either during the closing of the fabric holding frame or during the sewing operation. In order to obtain this condition, the fabric must be placed on the fabric holding frame after having been cut to their generally rectangular outlines and after the shorter sides thereof have been clamped in a frame, after which the pieces are finally cut adjacent the contour of the sewing subsequent to the performing of the sewing operation.

The above set forth procedure is, from a conceptual point of View, simple enough. However, it has not proven to be convenient since it requires an undesirable quantity of fabric to be cut off subsequent to the sewing operation. Further, this requires a double cutting operation, one cutting operation before and one cutting operation after the execution of the seams in accordance with the predetermined pattern.

In view of the foregoing, it is the primary object of this invention to effect the execution of the necessary seam on pieces of fabric which have been cut according to a chosen profile without the necessity of a trimming operation subsequent to the execution of the scam, the pieces of fabric having been cut to the predetermined outline beforehand and the pieces of fabric having been properly stretched and clamped in a fabric holding frame, the fabric holding frame being designed in such a manner so as to keep the pieces of fabric in a stretched relation While leaving the edges of the fabric free in order that the necessary sewing operation may take place along the extreme edges of the fabric. 7

ATLl rther object of this invention is to provide equipment for use in a sewing operation which permits pieces of fabric to be sewn together to be accurately stretched and clamped within a fabric holding frame without having to remove the fabric holding frame from an associated sewing machine, the equipment being of a nature whereby it is no longer necessary to follow the conventional step of placing the fabric holding frame on a table for preparing the pieces of fabric in their stretched position.

Still another object of this invention is to provide a novel apparatus for use in the execution of a predetermined pattern in sewing, the apparatus including a special table having means thereon for aligning fabric to be sewn, a fabric preparation frame releasably positioned on the table and having clamp means for clamping the ends only of fabric to be sewn, and the preparation frame being transferable from the table to an aligned position overlying the fabric holding frame, which fabric holding frame is automatically opened at the end of each sewing operation to remove the sewn fabric therefrom, and wherein the transfer of the stretched fabric from the preparation frame to the fabric holding frame is automatic by the closing of clamps of the fabric holding frame and the opening of clamps of the preparation frame.

With the above and other objects in View that will hereinafter appear, the nature of the invention will be more clearly understood by a reference to the following detailed description, the appended claims and the several views illustrated in the accompanying drawings.

in the drawings:

FIGURE 1 is a perspective view of a sewing machineequipped with the fabric holding frame of this invention.

FIGURE 2 is an exploded perspective view showing both the fabric holding frame and the preparation frame, one clamp of each of the two frames being shown intheir open positions, and the general details of each of the two frames being clearly shown.

FIGURE 3 is a perspective View showing the preparation frame interlocked with a preparation table and the fabric required for sewing a collar being partially posi tioned on the table and partially clamped in the preparation frame.

Referring now to the drawings in detail, it will be seen that in the forming of a shirt collar three pieces of fabric a, b, c are joined together by shaped sewing x. The sew ing x is carried out by an equipment which includes a sewing machine 1 which has a large table 2. The table has mounted thereon for controlled movement a fabric holding frame 3. Thefabric holding frame 3 includes a vertical support 4 which. is connected with conven tional automatic following mechanism (not shown) disposed beneath the table 2. The sewing machine 1 is of the type wherein the fabric holding frame 4 is shifted both longitudinally and transversely of the table 2 to follow a predetermined pattern. At the end of the sewing operation, the fabric holding frame 3 may be moved to its starting position by means of a handle 5, which handle 5 may also be utilized for moving the fabric hold ing frame 3 out of the projectory of a needle 6 of the sewing machine 1. When in this position, the fabric holding frame 3 may easily be opened to remove the sewn pieces of fabricand have others positioned therein.

Referring now to FIGURE 2, it will be seen that the fabric holding frame 3 includes an elongated support or rod 7 which is fixed to the vertical support 4 and on which are secured horizontal lower clamp plates 8 and 9 which are symmetrically arranged and on which the pieces of fabric a, b, c are to be placed. Each of the clamp plates 3, 9 is shaped in accordance with the profile of the shaped sewing x with the edges of the plates 8, 9 being spaced inwardly of the sewing pattern so that pieces of fabric placed on the clamp plates 8, 9 will protrude outwardly thereof with the edges of the fabric in position to be sewn along their edges.

The clamp plate 9; is illustrated as being shiftable along the rod 7 by the provision of an elongated slot 10' in the rod 7 and the securement of the clamp plate 9 by screwthreaded fasteners 11. The purpose of this adjustment of the clamp plate 9 is so that the clamp plates 8 and 9 may have an adjustable over-all length in accordance with variations in sizes of collars. If this adjustment were not' desired, then the two clamp plates 8, 9 may be of a similar piece construction. I

The clamp plates 8, 9 carry hinges 12 which are dis posed substantially parallel to the rod 7. The hinge 12 of the clamp plate 3 secures an upper clamp plate 13' in position and the hinge 12 of the clamp plate h secures an upper clamp plate 14 in position. The upper clamp plates 13 and 14 are shaped substantially like their respective clamp plates 8, 9 and are specifically designed to stretch and tightly clamp the pieces of fabric a, b, c

on the lower clamp plates 8, 9. In order to insure a better tightening of the pieces of fabric between the clamp plates 8 and 13 and 9 and 14, the faces of the clamp plates 13 and 14 opposing the clamp plates 8 and 9 are covered with a layer 15 of rubber or a similar elastic material. The layer 15 is provided with a groove 16 which conforms to a shallow upstanding rib 17 formed on the clamp plates 8 and 9 and running generally adjacent the edges of the clamp plates 8 and 9. Because of the provision of the grooves 16 and the ribs 17 the pieces of fabric are slightly folded in order to insure a better tightening.

In order to obtain a transverse stretching of the fabric a, b, c the upper faces of the clamp plates 13, 14 have struck therefrom upstanding bridges or guide straps 19 through which there pass central portions of carriage springs 20 which are formed of a resilient metal, such as piano wire. The springs 20 have ends 21 with one end passing through a small hole 22 adjacent the hinge 12 and the opposite end 21 passing through a transversely elongated slot 23. The ends 21 project slightly out of the rubber layer 15 and when the clamp plates 13 and 14 are closed, pinch pieces of fabric in the vicinity of the edges of the clamp plates 8 and 9 and cooperate therewith to tighten or stretch these pieces of fabric.

The upper clamp plates 13 and 14 are held in closed position by means of a pair of resilient arms 24 which are pivotally connected to the plates 8 and 9. The resilient arms 24 are provided with handles 25 to effect the pivoting thereof between positions overlying the clamp plates 13 and 14 wherein they engage stops 26 projecting upwardly from these clamp plates, and in these positions generally overlying the rod 7 and engaging stops 27.

Reference is now made to FIGURE 3 in particular wherein there is illustrated a preparation frame 28 and a preparation table 29 for the purpose of aligning the pieces of fabric a, b, c for transfer to the fabric holding frame 4. The preparation frame 28 includes an elongated rod or support 30 having a pair of arms 31 and 32 extending forwardly from adjacent opposite ends thereof. The arm 32 is rigidly secured to the rod 30 whereas the arm 31 is adjustable in a manner to be described hereinafter.

In order to effect the accurate positioning of the preparation frame 28 with respect to both the fabric holding frame 3 and the preparation table 29, the rod 30 is provided a pair of depending plugs or pins 34 which are selectively engageable in holes 35 formed in the rod 7 of the fabric holding frame 3 and in the holes 36 of the preparation table 29.

Each of the arms 31 and 32 carries a clamp, generally referred to by the numeral 33. The two clamps 33 are identical and are disposed in opposed relation. Each of the clamps 33 is secured to its respective arm by means of a pivot member 39 and a pair of screws 37 which are engaged in elongated slots 38. This arrangement permits the angular adjustment of the clamps 33 with respect to the arms 31 and 32.

The arm 31 may be shifted along the rod 30 towards and away from the arm 32. This is accomplished by providing the rod 30 with an elongated slot 40 and securing the arm 31 to the rod 30 by means of fasteners 41 which are of the screw-threaded type and which may be loosened. The fasteners 41 pass through the elongated slot 40.

Each of the clamps 33 includes a plate 42 which is provided adjacent an edge thereof with fabric engaging knurling 43 (FIG. 2). The plate 42 is also provided with upstanding tangs 44 against which the lateral edges y of the fabric pieces a, b, c abut.

The plate 42 has upstanding ears 45 which carry a transverse pivot rod 46. A pair of arms 47 are pivoted on the pivot rod 46 and carry an upper clamp plate 48 the lower face of which is covered by a layer of rubber or other elastic material. The clamp plate 48 is posi- 4 tioned to press on the knurling 43 of the plate 42. The closing of the clamp 33 is insured by a spring 50 which is fixedly secured to a projecting part of the plate 42 and which presses on a curved tang 51 extending outwardly from the clamp plate 48.

The opening of each clamp 33 is effected by means of a handle 52 which projects upwardly from the clamp plate 48 on opposite sides of the tang 51. When the plate 48 is rotated around the pivot rod 46, the spring 59 enters into a window 53 in the tang 51 and again presses on the tang 51 to keep the clamp plate 48 in its open position, as is shown in the left-hand part of FIG- URES 2 and 3.

It is desirable that the preparation frame 28 rest upon the preparation table 29 in such a manner that the clamps 33 preferably rest on a surface 54 of the preparation table 29. In order that this may occur, the preparation table 29 is provided with a pair of small generally hatshaped plates 55 on which the rod 30 of the preparation frame 28 rests. Each plate 55 is provided with a hole 56 for receiving the pin 34 of the rod 30 and each hole 56 is aligned with one of the holes 36 in the preparation table 29. The plates 55 are preferably mounted on a spacer or step 57 and the holes 36 are in the spacer 57.

The preparation table 29 is also provided with an elongated structural shape 58 which is disposed remote from and parallel to the holes 36. The structural shape 58 is suitably secured to the preparation table 29 and is pro: vided with screw fasteners 59 which secure in place thereon a pair of plates 60 and 61. Each of the plates 60 and 61 is provided with an arcuate slot 62 in which one of the screw fasteners 59 is positioned to permit the angular adjustment of the plate about the other of the screw fasteners 59. The screw fasteners 59 for the plate 66 pass through an elongated slot 63 in the structural shape 58 so that the plate 60 may be adjusted toward and away from the plate 61 in accordance with the length of the fabric to be sewn together.

It is to be noted that the plates 60 and 61 are provided with offset tangs 64 which project to one side of the plates 60 and 61 and which directly overlie the preparation table 29.

In the operation of this invention, the pieces of fabric a, b, c are placed on the surface 54 of the preparation table so that their edges engage the tangs 64 of the plates 60 and 61 and the tangs 44 of the clamps 33. When the pieces of fabric are so positioned, they are properly aligned. Following this, the clamps 33 are closed and engage the longitudinal edges y of the pieces of fabric so that the pieces of fabric are now longitudinally stretched and clamped in place within the preparation frame 28 ready for transfer to the fabric holding frame 3.

Referring now to FIGURE 2, it will be seen that in order that the desired alignment of the clamps 33 with the clamp plates 8, 9, 13 and 14 of the fabric holding frame 3 may be accomplished, the rod 7 is provided with a pair of hat-shaped plates 65 which are provided with holes 66 aligned with the holes 35. When the preparation frame 28 is positioned with respect to the fabric holding frame 3 by passing the pins 34 down through the aligned holes 66 and 35, edges W of the clamps 33 are disposed immediately adjacent edges Z of the clamp plates 8 and 9.

It is to be understood that the clamp plates 13 and 14 of the fabric holding frame 3 will automatically be in their open positions for the reception of the fabric pieces a, b, c after these previously sewn pieces of fabric have been removed therefrom. In order to transfer the new pieces of fabric to be sewn from the preparation frame 28 to the fabric holding frame 3, it is merely necessary to position the preparation frame 28 on the fabric holding frame 3. Then the clamp plates 13 and 14 are lowered and clamped in place by the resilient straps 24. Following this, the clamps 33 are opened to release the pieces of fabric, after which the preparation frame 28 is removed if? from the fabric holding frame 3 and is replaced on the preparation table 29 for the positioning of other pieces of fabric a, b, c therein while the required sewing is being executed on the fabric within the fabric holding frame 3.

It is to be understood that inasmuch as the fabric hold. ing frame 3 is not removed from the sewing machine 1, once it has been loaded, it is merely necessary to move the same to a sewing starting position by means of the handle 5. Once the fabric holding frame 3 is in the sewing starting position, the operation of the sewing machine is automatic.

Although only a preferred embodiment of the invention has been specifically illustrated and described herein, and the use of the invention has been restricted to a shape particularly adapted to collars, it is to be understood that the invention is not restricted either as to structure or to arrangement and minor variations may be made within the spirit and scope of the invention, as defined in the appended claims.

I claim:

1. A fabric stretching and holding device for use in controlled sewing by an automatic sewing machine, said device comprising a preparation frame having means for initially positioning and clamping a plurality of fabric layers to be sewn, and a fabric holding frame for holding fabric layers in stretched relation during a sewing operation, cooperating means on said preparation frame and said fabric holding frame for aligning said frames during the transfer of fabric layers from said preparation frame to said fabric holding frame, and means on said fabric holding frame for attachment to a sewing machine.

2. The device of claim 1 wherein one of said frames has means for holding fabric tensioned in a longitudinal direction and the other of said frames having means for effecting stretching of fabric in a transverse direction.

3. The device of claim 1 wherein said preparation frame has a pair of longitudinally spaced clamps for clamping longitudinal ends of fabric layers in longitudinally stretched relation, and said fabric holding frame having clamp means extending a major portion of the distance between said longitudinal spaced clamps.

4. The device of claim 1 wherein said preparation frame has a pair of longitudinally spaced clamps for clamping longitudinal ends of fabric layers in longitudinally stretched relation, and said fabric holding frame having clamp means extending a major portion of the distance between said longitudinal spaced clamps, said fabric holding frame clamp means progressively closing in a transverse direction to transversely stretch previously longitudinally stretched fabric carried by said preparation frame.

5. The device of claim 1 wherein said preparation frame has a pair of longitudinally spaced clamps for clamping longitudinal ends of fabric layers in longitudinally stretched relation, and said fabric holding frame having clamp means extending a major portion of the distanoe between said longitudinal spaced clamps, said fabric holding frame clamp means having means thereon for eifecting a transverse stretching of fabric.

6. A fabric holding clamp for automatic contoured sewing, said clamp comprising a longitudinal support, means on said support for attachment to a sewing machine to effect the movement of said clamp, and progressively closing clamp means carried by said support for clamping fabric, said clamp means including means for stretching fabric in the direction of closing of said clamp means, and wherein said clamp includes a pair of pivotally connected clamp plates, and said fabric stretching means includes a fabric gripping surface on a movable one of said clamp plates, and a fabric pusher receiving groove in said surface, fabric gripping resilient fingers on a movable one of said clamp plates.

7. A fabric holding clamp for automatic contoured sewing, said clamp comprising a longitudinal support, means on said support for attachment to a sewing machine to effect the movement of said clamp, and progressively closing clamp means carried by said support for clamping fabric, said clamp means including means for stretching fabric in the direction of closing of said clamp means, and wherein said clamp includes a pair of pivotally connected clamp plates, and said fabric stretching means includes a fabric gripping surface on a movable one of said clamp plates, and a fabric pusher receiving groove in said surface, fabric gripping resilient fingers on a movable one of said clamp plates, said fingers being in the form of offset ends on a spring wire with said end extending through said movable clamp plate from the exterior thereof.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,754,780 Holmes-Higgin July 17, 1956 2,768,592 Bihaly Oct. 30, 1956 

1. A FABRIC STRECTING AND HOLDING DEVICE FOR USE IN CONTROLLED SEWING BY AN AUTOMATIC SEWING MACHINE, SAID DEVICE COMPRISING A PREPARTATION FRAME HAVING MEANS FOR INITIALLY POSITIONING AND CLAMPING A PLURALITY OF FABRIC LAYERS TO BE SEWN, AND A FABRIC HOLDING FRAME FOR HOLDING FABRIC LAYERS IN STRETCHED RELATION DURING A SEWING OPERATION, COOPERATING MEANS ON SAID PREPARTION FRAME AND SAID FABRIC HOLDING FRAME FOR ALIGNING SAID FRAMES DURING THE TRANSFER OF FABRIC LAYERS FROM SAID PREPARATION FRAME TO SAID FABRIC HOLDING FRAME, AND MEANS ON SAID FABRIC HOLDING FRAME FOR ATTACHMENT TO A SEWING MACHINE. 